Zucchini and brown butter a winning cornbread combination

Bake up summer in a cast-iron skillet with flecks of garden-fresh zucchini and pops of sweet corn.

For the Minnesota Star Tribune
July 12, 2023 at 12:30PM
Brown butter adds a nutty flavor to Zucchini Corny Cornbread. Recipe by Beth Dooley, photos by Ashley Moyna Schwickert, Special to the Star Tribune
Brown butter adds a nutty flavor to Zucchini Corny Cornbread. (Ashley Moyna Schwickert, Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Zucchini may not inspire the same giddy anticipation as sweet corn, but I'm thrilled that it's now in season.

I do love it grilled and piled with fresh herbs and lots of lemon, or thinly sliced and caramelized in a pan, then tossed with cherry tomatoes and pasta. Shredded zucchini figures into everyday muffins, waffles and pancakes, adding texture, color and that light vegetable flavor.

It does a lot of good in cornbread, too. I've been browning butter for cornbread and just about everything else for its rich, nutty, toasty flavor. Adding a handful of corn kernels to cornbread gives it pops of sweetness, while shredded zucchini helps keep it moist. When the batter is baked in a heavy cast-iron skillet, it sears and develops a supremely crisp, buttery crust while the cornbread stays tender and light.

Shredded zucchini as an ingredient in baking recipes is similar to shredded carrots or apples. Its neutral flavor works nicely with warm spices, savory herbs and hot peppers. Be sure to choose smaller zucchini that are firm, shiny and dense. Leave it unpeeled to retain the fiber, nutrients and color.

It's better to shred the zucchini than to chop it to maintain a more consistent texture. Once it's shredded, allow it to rest in a colander over the sink for about 10 minutes to drain off any excess moisture. There is no reason to squeeze the zucchini shreds before folding them into the batter.

Add the zucchini as the last ingredient and use a very light hand when mixing. Serve this cornbread hot from the oven, warmed up the next day, for breakfast slathered with butter and jam, or with a hunk of cheddar and an icy cold beer. It's a celebration of summer in a skillet.

Brown butter adds a nutty flavor to Zucchini Corny Cornbread. Recipe by Beth Dooley, photos by Ashley Moyna Schwickert, Special to the Star Tribune
Brown butter adds a nutty flavor to Zucchini Corny Cornbread. (Ashley Moyna Schwickert, Special to the Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Zucchini Corny Cornbread

Serves 4 to 6.

Slightly sweet, with a crunchy, buttery crust, this cornbread is great hot from the oven slathered with butter or a hunk of sharp cheese. The corn kernels add pops of flavor and the flecks of green zucchini give it color and help keep it moist. From Beth Dooley.

• 8 tbsp. (1 stick) butter

• 1/4 c. honey

• 1 c. buttermilk or plain whole milk yogurt

• 1 large egg

• 1 1/4 c. cornmeal

• 1/2 c. flour

• 2 tsp. baking powder

• 1 tsp. salt

• 1/2 c. corn kernels

• 1 c. shredded zucchini (about 2 small zucchini or 1 medium), drained in a colander for 10 minutes

Directions

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a 9- or 10-inch cast-iron skillet, melt the butter over medium heat, swirling the pan to coat the sides and bottom, until the foam subsides and the butter turns a deep nut brown. Watch carefully so it doesn't burn. Pour the butter into a large bowl (leave some in the pan). Whisk in the honey, buttermilk and egg. Once combined, whisk in the cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt. Then gently fold in the corn and the zucchini.

If the skillet is no longer hot, reheat it on the stove for a few minutes before pouring the batter into the skillet. Bake until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 25 to 30 minutes. Serve hot.

Tip: If you're not using a cast-iron skillet, put the butter into a 9- or 10-inch square baking pan and brown the butter in the oven.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

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