Peek inside Aster House, the new modern Minnesota supper club

The refurbished 144-year-old stone-brick building boasts a menu by Karyn Tomlinson and an Old World setting with midcentury touches.

The Minnesota Star Tribune
November 11, 2024 at 2:00PM
The Lazy Susan at Aster House is a sampler of snacks for $24. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Ahead of the opening of Aster House, owner Jeff Arundel was careful to note that this isn’t a supper club. Well, not exactly. “I’ve learned that when you say supper club, people tend to think that means exclusive,” he said.

While Aster House may not hold the supper-club moniker high, it is a restaurant steeped in Midwestern dining history, but presented through a modern lens.

The restrained menu was written by Karyn Tomlinson, chef-owner of St. Paul’s Myriel, who was recently named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs. She worked with Aster House chef Josh Jones to forge relationships with small Minnesota farms and create a variety of dishes that highlight its deep Minnesota roots.

The dining room of Aster House, located in one of Minneapolis' oldest neighborhoods. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Location: 25 SE. Main St., Mpls., asterhousempls.com

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sun., Tue.-Thu.; 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; kitchen closes an hour earlier.

The vibe: The refurbished 144-year-old stone-brick building is sparsely decorated with a couple of newly painted murals that evoke Old World tavern or Tolkien fan. Dangling light fixtures are midcentury made but with medieval style. All lend to the feeling that it’s a place that has always been instead of something brand-new.

Most of the dining is in the spacious, open first floor; eventually there will be tables and concert seating upstairs. Where a collection of tropical plants sits, there will be a stage for musical acts.

Because the restaurant will eventually be a concert venue, acoustics have been considered as part of the dining experience. Despite stone walls and a high ceiling, conversation hum allows for intimate evenings even in the middle of the room. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Arundel, who’s also a musician, clearly holds an appreciation for this area of Minneapolis, the city’s first main street lined with historic buildings. He also owns nearby Aster Cafe and Jefe Urban Cocina.

In addition, he was behind the revival of the iconic Charlie’s Exceptionale at the Minneapolis Club downtown, bringing public dining into the members-only institution.

Because of the attention to acoustics, Aster House has a low-level hum of energy, but conversation level inside the full dining room was moderate.

Chef Karyn Tomlinson helped Aster House chef Josh Jones create local farmer connections for seasonal dishes, like this buttermilk and corn toast appetizer ($8). (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

The food: Appetizers start with the Lazy Susan ($24), a twirling selection of bits from whatever the kitchen is creating. On our visit that included pâté, homemade cheddar crusty crackers, smoked trout dip, pickles and a few other nibbles we were left to suss out for ourselves. Our server, also still new, understandably didn’t know exactly what all we had that day.

There are a few selections of a la carte bread, appetizers and small plates. A seasonal corn toast was niblets dressed in buttermilk served on bread slices. It’s one of a handful of vegetable-forward options, which also includes mushrooms over polenta, kabocha squash bisque, and ratatouille in addition to two salads.

A thick pork chop is expertly seasoned, grilled and intentionally served medium rare over a bed of braised white beans. (Sharyn Jackson/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Larger entrees feel like prairie land classics: roast chicken and cabbage, lake fish with braised fennel, steak with buttered potatoes, and a large pork chop served medium-rare over white beans.

Cost: Bread and appetizers are $8-$9. Entrees top out at $42 for the steak, but a meal could be made for sharing by adding vegetables and sides, which range from $9-$15.

Aster House cocktails are small riffs on classics and largely spirit-forward. (Sharyn Jackson/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

The drinks: Cocktails are new standard classics with a twist, like a whiskey highball with lemongrass and peppercorn vodka or a demerara syrup-sweetened Old Fashioned. Most are $14 except for the Manhattan, which has a $20 price tag that’s likely due to the Basil Hayden rye. There are two original NA cocktails, along with a handful of other options, including a Heineken NA beer.

Wine was selected by Erin Ungerman, who has worked closely with Tomlinson in the past. Her selections always lean into value, with familiar varietals mingling with interesting small producers. Glasses hover around $12-$15.

Aster House is located near the Mississippi River, E. Hennepin Avenue and, perhaps most importantly in chilly weather, a parking ramp. (Joy Summers/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Parking: There are meters along SE. Main Street, and the parking ramp elevator is just a couple of steps away. There are nearby bike paths and a couple of bus stops a short walk away.

Accessibility: For those with mobility issues, the old cobblestone sidewalk and road out front are challenging with uneven and unpredictable surfaces. There’s a ramp approaching the restaurant and an elevator down to the first-floor bathrooms. The entrance, main dining room and bar are a single, flat level.

about the writer

about the writer

Joy Summers

Food and Drink Reporter

Joy Summers is a St. Paul-based food reporter who has been covering Twin Cities restaurants since 2010. She joined the Star Tribune in 2021. 

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