Peek inside Aster House, the new modern Minnesota supper club

Ahead of the opening of Aster House, owner Jeff Arundel was careful to note that this isn’t a supper club. Well, not exactly. “I’ve learned that when you say supper club, people tend to think that means exclusive,” he said.

While Aster House may not hold the supper-club moniker high, it is a restaurant steeped in Midwestern dining history, but presented through a modern lens.

The restrained menu was written by Karyn Tomlinson, chef-owner of St. Paul’s Myriel, who was recently named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs. She worked with Aster House chef Josh Jones to forge relationships with small Minnesota farms and create a variety of dishes that highlight its deep Minnesota roots.

Location: 25 SE. Main St., Mpls., asterhousempls.com

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Sun., Tue.-Thu.; 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; kitchen closes an hour earlier.

The vibe: The refurbished 144-year-old stone-brick building is sparsely decorated with a couple of newly painted murals that evoke Old World tavern or Tolkien fan. Dangling light fixtures are midcentury made but with medieval style. All lend to the feeling that it’s a place that has always been instead of something brand-new.

Most of the dining is in the spacious, open first floor; eventually there will be tables and concert seating upstairs. Where a collection of tropical plants sits, there will be a stage for musical acts.

Arundel, who’s also a musician, clearly holds an appreciation for this area of Minneapolis, the city’s first main street lined with historic buildings. He also owns nearby Aster Cafe and Jefe Urban Cocina.

In addition, he was behind the revival of the iconic Charlie’s Exceptionale at the Minneapolis Club downtown, bringing public dining into the members-only institution.

Because of the attention to acoustics, Aster House has a low-level hum of energy, but conversation level inside the full dining room was moderate.

The food: Appetizers start with the Lazy Susan ($24), a twirling selection of bits from whatever the kitchen is creating. On our visit that included pâté, homemade cheddar crusty crackers, smoked trout dip, pickles and a few other nibbles we were left to suss out for ourselves. Our server, also still new, understandably didn’t know exactly what all we had that day.

There are a few selections of a la carte bread, appetizers and small plates. A seasonal corn toast was niblets dressed in buttermilk served on bread slices. It’s one of a handful of vegetable-forward options, which also includes mushrooms over polenta, kabocha squash bisque, and ratatouille in addition to two salads.

Larger entrees feel like prairie land classics: roast chicken and cabbage, lake fish with braised fennel, steak with buttered potatoes, and a large pork chop served medium-rare over white beans.

Cost: Bread and appetizers are $8-$9. Entrees top out at $42 for the steak, but a meal could be made for sharing by adding vegetables and sides, which range from $9-$15.

The drinks: Cocktails are new standard classics with a twist, like a whiskey highball with lemongrass and peppercorn vodka or a demerara syrup-sweetened Old Fashioned. Most are $14 except for the Manhattan, which has a $20 price tag that’s likely due to the Basil Hayden rye. There are two original NA cocktails, along with a handful of other options, including a Heineken NA beer.

Wine was selected by Erin Ungerman, who has worked closely with Tomlinson in the past. Her selections always lean into value, with familiar varietals mingling with interesting small producers. Glasses hover around $12-$15.

Parking: There are meters along SE. Main Street, and the parking ramp elevator is just a couple of steps away. There are nearby bike paths and a couple of bus stops a short walk away.

Accessibility: For those with mobility issues, the old cobblestone sidewalk and road out front are challenging with uneven and unpredictable surfaces. There’s a ramp approaching the restaurant and an elevator down to the first-floor bathrooms. The entrance, main dining room and bar are a single, flat level.