The mammoth restaurant at 700 Hennepin Av. S. is keeping its name and its basic cuisine identity, but from there — beginning this weekend — change is in the air for Seven Steakhouse, Sushi and Rooftop (7mpls.com).
Seven Steakhouse gets a makeover thanks to acclaimed Minneapolis chef
Sameh Wadi of World Street Kitchen and the former Saffron has revamped the massive restaurant's menu and look.
After coming on board as culinary director earlier this year, Sameh Wadi — the chef behind World Street Kitchen, Milkjam Creamery and the former Saffron — will unveil his revamped concept and menus in the renovated space on Friday.
"Everything I do has to be cohesive," said Wadi, who was approached by owners Ken Sherman and Ro Shirole after they bought the restaurant in January. "If I'm going to do a project, I need to think about all of it. To me, the space never felt like the food — there was always a disconnect between the two. I wanted the food to be the voice."
What that voice is saying might be similar, but the tone, now, is different. Modern light fixtures and a bar top featuring 17,000 hand-placed marbles give the space a fresh look.
While Seven's menu will keep the basic composition of a steakhouse — appetizers, soups, salads and big cuts of meat — along with sushi, Wadi has shaken up everything from the vendors to the beef-aging philosophies. For example, an 8-ounce sirloin will be given New York strip-esque treatment, aged for a minimum of 40 days. The oft-overlooked cut, Wadi says, is his favorite on the list.
Wadi's first-ever burger, a single smashed patty modeled after the Matt's Bar standard, gets smothered with two cheeses and carmelized onions. Classic dishes also get upgrades: There are Goldfish crackers in the mac and cheese, Champagne in the potato soup, duck meat in the buffalo nuggets.
And the sushi? "We're going a little more exciting," Wadi said. That means globally inspired takes and names like "baller": nigiri with king crab, caviar and — yep — a gold flake.
"Finally, I get to put some olive oil on sushi," Wadi said, with a laugh. "People are looking at me like I'm crazy."
Renovations for the mezzanine level, sushi bar and former ultralounge — Wadi & Co. are removing that term and transforming it into private dining — are up next for the 40,000-square-foot building. Meanwhile, work on the rooftop has already begun, with a wooden pergola and new tables in place.
Lefse-wrapped Swedish wontons, a soothing bowl of rice porridge and a gravy-laden commercial filled our week with comfort and warmth.