The 5 best things our food writers ate in the Twin Cities area this week
Appetizers, pizza and an elevated daiquiri cocktail were among the stars of this week’s best bites and sips.
New Jerseyans know pizza, in my not-so-humble N.J.-native opinion. So I was thrilled to discover a fellow Garden Stater slinging dough in the gorgeous wildflower garden outside Bang Brewing in St. Paul. Chef JM Lynch grew up on the Jersey Shore, where he says “pizza was part of our culture.” The Culinary Institute of America-trained chef cooked in several cities before landing in Minnesota, working as executive chef at Travail and developing pizzas at Nouvelle Brewing.
He recently struck out on his own, launching Farina Rossa. The name, Italian for red wheat, honors the whole-grain, organic, stone-ground type from local producer Baker’s Field Flour and Bread that he uses in his sourdough crusts. Lynch’s residency, for now, is in a tent behind Bang Brewing’s distinctive grain bin set against a natural prairie garden that’s just popping with color. (Could there be a more picturesque escape from this otherwise industrial corner of St. Paul?)
I preferred the combinations with the most abundant toppings. The hands-down favorite at my table was the Lucky Peach ($21), a limited-time seasonal celebration. Crushed peaches give the pie a sweet-and-sour vibrancy that stands up to the crust, three kinds of cheese (including hand-pulled mozzarella and cotija), and a happy little salad of arugula, basil, pickled jalapeños and sunflower seeds. There’s an option to add prosciutto for $2.50, and it’s a very good idea.
As for the beer, the all-organic Bang Brewing is one of just 11 breweries nationwide to collaborate with outdoor gear company Patagonia to brew with the sustainable Kernza grain. You’ll find Kernza ales and lagers on tap, and you can spike them with a Misfit Coffee Co.-made mixer, such as lime-orange-hibiscus Rita for a crisp beer cocktail. (Sharyn Jackson)
2320 Capp Road, St. Paul, 404-502-2120, farinarossakitchen.com, bangbrewing.com
Walleye tots at Farmers Kitchen + Bar
All our planning for the State Fair inspired a recent visit to the brick-and-mortar version of a favorite stand at the Great Minnesota Get-Together. The Minnesota Farmers Union is behind Farmers Kitchen + Bar and, like its State Fair stand, emphasizes local food producers but with a wider range of offerings.
Neither the casual roasted veggie sandwich nor the more composed roast chicken dish disappointed. But the showstopper of chef Kris Koch’s menu was perhaps the most Minnesotan and fairlike item: the walleye tots ($14) off the starter menu. As with any great fair food, the deep-fried concoction impressed us in science and execution.
Each tot is oversized to provide a thick enough coat of potato slivers to hold a dense amount of walleye. While such a strong cast could easily outshine the other, the ingredients balanced and complemented each other. House tartar sauce and a lemon wedge gave the dish tang and brightness. But all would have been lost had the kitchen not cooked the giant tots to a golden crisp.
The evening we dined at the order-at-the-counter spot where food is brought to your table, the place was filled with theatergoers grabbing preshow cocktails and a bite before heading to the Guthrie Theater across the street. We could relate to the pre-event. Except in our case, it was a warmup to the fair. (Nancy Ngo)
750 S. 2nd St., Mpls., 612-200-9434, farmerskitchenandbar.com
Beef suqaar at Sambosa Restaurant
There’s an expanding trove of restaurants in a range of cuisines along the south metro’s County Road 42 corridor that turn weekend lunches into flavorful adventures. This time we tumbled to Sambosa Restaurant, lured by the promise of its namesake food.
And that’s what we started with — an order of generous chicken- and beef-filled pastry triangles (two for $4), fried until blistery and crisp. As tempting as it was to make a meal of sambosas, we also ordered the chicken kay kay noodle dish and beef suqaar, both Somali staples (and both $16.99). While we wouldn’t hesitate to order either again, the suqaar emerged as our favorite. Cubes of boldly seasoned beef were paired with vegetables sautéed until tender, and served with sides of Somali rice and lettuce.
Thanks to our sambosa starters, we both took home heaps of leftovers and can report that the suqaar and its accompaniments taste just as good the next day — especially when wrapped in tortillas. Just be sure to take home the sauces, too. The spicier the better. (Nicole Hvidsten)
3995 Egan Drive, Savage, 952-641-0234, sambosasavage.com
Pimento cheese dip at Dutch Bar
Pimento cheese dip has a Southern reputation, though actually, it originated in New York in the 1870s. Either way, the dish today belongs to us all. I love the version served on the cheese board at Picnic, and the super-spicy stuff they’re making at Marty’s Deli. After a visit to Dutch Bar, also in Minneapolis, I’m adding theirs to my list of favorites.
Patty Grell, who long owned the beloved Modern Cafe just a few miles away, launched the charming Dutch Bar with her son last year. It’s named for the northeast Minneapolis’ Holland neighborhood in which the restaurant is located, as well as the idea that “to share is lovely,” Grell said.
The pimento cheese dip is all about sharing. It starts from a classic recipe: cream cheese, mayo, pimento peppers, cheddar cheese, seasoning. Then, Grell has some fun. Sriracha, cayenne pepper, smoked paprika and, to Grell’s delight, dry ranch powder. “MSG!” she proclaimed.
A bowl of this, with a pile of Old Dutch kettle chips, is $9. But stop in for happy hour, 4 to 6 p.m. Tues. through Sat., and it’ll run you $7. Grab a cocktail or a glass of wine, some olives, maybe some cold cuts, or try the pimento cheese spread on a toasted sandwich, and you’ve got an easy breezy dinner. (S.J.)
2512 Central Av. NE., Mpls., 612-400-7883, dutchbarnempls.com
Monkeyin’ Around cocktail at Nightlark
Catching up with a friend led to checking out the summer pop-up cocktail lounge at Hotel Emery. The space is coffee shop by day, Nightlark by night Thursday through Saturday through the end of August.
Cocktails, created by lead bartender John Olson, riff off classics while playing off the tropical notes of Southeast Asia. The highlight was the Monkeyin’ Around, ($16), a spin on a daiquiri. Familiar ingredients such as dark rum were given a boost with items such as crème de banana liqueur for added tropical notes. The shaken and not stirred treatment gave it a nice froth and smoothed out the flavors. To wash it down, there’s a snack/bar menu of edamame, potstickers, chicken skewers and other shareables.
In creating the pop-up, more towering tropical plants were added, as were umbrellas and neon lights that played off the soft glow of lamps while the music was tuned into clubby lounge vibrations. All pulled together, the space gave off cozy, contemporary vibes ripe for the occasion of checking out a new space while catching up with an old friend. (N.N.)
215 S. 4th St., Mpls., 612-340-2000, hotelemery.com/dine/nightlark
Lefse-wrapped Swedish wontons, a soothing bowl of rice porridge and a gravy-laden commercial filled our week with comfort and warmth.