Midwest Sushi at the Birdhouse Eat & Drink
Back in the days of office holiday potlucks, I'd try to outdo myself by making an elaborate cake or a gourmet quiche, something I thought would subtly "win" the otherwise completely noncompetitive festive gathering. Then there was year I showed up with my spin on macaroni and cheese — with lutefisk. I was so sure that the ingenuity of it would sweep my colleagues off their feet. Inevitably, my dish would sit there with barely a sliver removed, while the real star of the party, the first plate to be wiped clean, was always the Midwest sushi, aka the pickle roll-up.
Not being a native Midwesterner, it took me some years to come around to the simplistic delight of a breadless lunchmeat burrito. Now I know that no picnic is complete without it.
Tongue-in-cheek versions have popped up on restaurant menus here and there — there's even a pizza topped with a rolled-up pickle spear at Wrecktangle. But the Birdhouse, a charming neighborhood eatery with a couple of arcade games and a bookshelf full of kids' activities in the back, stays true to the classic, only zhushing it up with a sprinkle of herbs. A $6 plate of crosscut pickles, rolled in dill cream cheese and ham, is made even better by the vintage-style stoneware it is served on and the retro wallpaper beyond. It's the perfect companion to the other nostalgia-filled menu items, including pot roast, Tater Tot hot dish and a dessert bar sampler. This place would win the potluck every time. (Sharyn Jackson)
4153 Broadway Av. W., Robbinsdale, 763-205-9668, thebirdhousemn.com

Bootleg at the Grocer's Table
Another Minnesota tradition that I missed out on is the Bootleg. Thankfully, that's been rectified. Like pickle roll-ups, this summery cocktail that begins as a mix of puréed mint and citrus reads more homemade than high end. But why not have it both ways?
Grocer's Table, the market, cafe and wine bar in downtown Wayzata, recently added cocktails to the menu. And they're crafted by top bartender Katy Dimick, formerly of Hola Arepa. Fruity and bright, the drinks utilize the flavors of passion fruit, lemongrass, hibiscus and cassis. In the case of the Grocer's Bootleg ($14), there are no surprises. Just mint, lemon, lime, your choice of gin, vodka or tequila, and a splash of soda water on top, served up in a canning jar.
The best part about having a market in the middle of a restaurant? Almost everything on the drop-dead gorgeous shareable boards (the smoked fish board, for $22, was a knockout) can be purchased to go. And so can the Bootleg mix ($16), in a bottle printed with instructions to make at home. I grabbed one ahead of a weekend gathering, poured my own Bootleg and made up for lost time. (S.J.)
326 Broadway Av. S., Wayzata, 952-466-6100, thegrocerstablemn.com