Fairgoers who want an increasingly rare taste of America might consider plopping down at a church dining hall -- while they still can.

"The tradition of good food at the fair started with these diners," says Dennis Larson, who manages the licensing of food vendors at the fair. "Fast food was sort of invented at the fair, and that's what flourishes here."

According to State Fair records, there were once about 25 church-run establishments. In 1995, six remained. This year, it's down to three, and counting. The 2011 Get-Together will be the final year for the Epiphany Country Diner, located on Underwood Street between Carnes and Judson. After serving holy chow for 45 years, the Coon Rapids-based Epiphany Catholic Church is pulling out of the fair.

"It was not a decision made lightly or without significant heartache," says Sue Lewis, a longtime church member and volunteer. "We are not blaming anyone for our closing. Our food is simply not as desirable as it used to be."

There was a time when such hearty fairground fare was in demand. During the fair's old days as an agricultural exposition, farm families were once the essential visitors. Their idea of a treat was the familiar gravy-drenched fare they ate in their small-town cafes. Today, the typical fair visitor is from the metro area, and might prefer a deep-fried, chocolate-dipped, spiral-cut spud when strolling the midway.

Like other modern vendors, the church dining halls must run commercial kitchens and adhere to health and safety regulations. "Years ago, women in the congregation would make food at home and bring it to the fair in roaster pans; it was free money for them," Larson says. "Now it's a lot of work for not that much of a profit."

Seniors Day (this Thursday) is always a big day for the church halls. But it's not enough to be popular with oldsters and the 3,000 eaters who make up the fair's daily workforce. "People who eat what we call 'the fun food' are here for a day," says Larson. "If you're here all the time, you want meat and potatoes. But there aren't enough of us for the churches to make it with those numbers."

The fair regulates what all vendors may serve and sell, and the church halls are obligated to operate traditional, full-service, diner-style operations. "We are constrained on being able to change our menu or setup significantly enough to attract the kind of business we need to succeed," explains Lewis. "We did want to serve alcohol; however, that was not approved. We wanted to close early because we are significantly slower at night and that was also denied."

At the Salem Lutheran Church dining hall, longtime volunteer Carol Logeais says they haven't quite given up yet. "We're going to stay as long as we can, but every year, we wonder if it will be our last. Every year we survive, it's a miracle."

Lovers of French bread -- and who doesn't love French bread? -- will enjoy a free breakfast event, with free bread samples, on Sunday at Alliance Francaise, featuring Chez Arnaud owner Arnaud de Rambures and Breadsmith owner David Wright. (9:30-11:30 a.m. 113 N. 1st St., Mpls.)