Some tips on making the perfect summer breakfast: waffles

I never envisioned myself as a person who would spend $200 on a waffle maker.

Turns out I am, and the mortifying extent to which I've come to love this stainless steel beauty is tipping dangerously into character-flaw territory.

Weighing in at 12 pounds, this is one substantial appliance — it reminds me of the heavy, no-nonsense General Electric waffle maker my mother relied upon when I was a kid — and its nonstick, cast-aluminum grids make a perfectly rendered quartet of square, inch-thick waffles. The best I've ever made, without question.

Those three single-serving waffle makers that I've accumulated over the years? I couldn't relegate them to the box labeled "garage sale" fast enough. Buh-bye.

With a new countertop toy at my disposal (and no, I'm not naming brand names; OK, it's made by All-Clad), I find myself test-driving all kinds of breakfast waffle recipes.

So far, four have landed in the "keepers" pile. They differ from one another in terms of the availability of key ingredients, and degree of difficulty.

When I crave waffles, I invariably start with Overnight Waffles, a Mark Bittman recipe that I've prepared so many times that I committed it to memory years ago. (Yes, they're even better when prepared in my fancy new waffle maker, a reflection, I'm guessing, of its deeper dimensions and more intense heating capacity.)

I've never encountered a lighter, more delicate waffle. They're notably crispy, and their mild yeast flavor is a welcome surprise. (The recipe calls for separating the eggs and beating the whites, but the batter is light enough to skip this step.)

They freeze and reheat like a dream, so leftovers are a plus. Another bonus: Overnight Waffles don't require buying buttermilk. There's just one drawback: As the name suggests, the batter must be assembled eight or more hours in advance. So long, waffle spontaneity.

Enter Plain-and-Easy Breakfast Quickies. Dreadful name, sure, but it's also a rare buttermilk-free waffle recipe. Which is important because when is the last time that buttermilk — a key building block for make-them-now waffles — had a place in your refrigerator?

Chances are, you've got these ingredients on hand, and the sturdy results are fine. More than fine, actually. They certainly rate higher than an Eggo.

But let's face it, buttermilk — and its miraculous tenderizing qualities — can have a profoundly positive impact on waffle texture.

That's when Basic Buttermilk Waffles come in handy. They're quick and easy (well, as convenient as beating egg whites can be, but with this formula, it's a necessary step), tender and tasty, and a reason to add a quart of buttermilk to your shopping list.

When decadence calls or guests need to be impressed, Georgia Bits and Grits Waffles are the way to go, an over-the-top gateway to waffles' (nearly limitless) savory side. The grits infuse each bite with a whisper of corn, and of course bacon improves everything it touches. It's a flexible recipe, too; for those who prefer to skip the bacon, the results remain delicious.

Summer cabin guests, your buying-a-host-gift worries are over.

Rather than wine, candles or some other generic, easily forgotten gesture, consider tying a ribbon around a waffle maker.

Unlike my latest magnificent obsession, the average waffle maker is no budget-denter: Target, Wal-Mart and Amazon.com all stock perfectly suitable options in the $30-and-under range. Cast-iron or aluminum stovetop (translation: non-electric) versions cost even less.

It's also the gift that keeps on giving. The recipients will enjoy waffles, into perpetuity, and every time they prepare waffles, they'll think of you. And those (presumably happy) thoughts could very well trigger a "Let's invite them back" conversation. See? Everyone wins.

Here's another tip: Add a handy, shelf-stable container of cultured buttermilk powder (expect to pay around $7). It's an ideal waffle-related cabin provision. A bottle of real, made-in-Minnesota maple syrup wouldn't hurt, either.

Serves 4 to 6.

From "How to Cook Everything" by Mark Bittman.

• 1/2 tsp. instant yeast

• 2 c. flour

• 1 tbsp. sugar

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 2 c. milk

• 8 tbsp. (1 stick) butter, melted and cooled

• 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract, optional

• 2 eggs, separated

• Butter and maple syrup, for serving

Directions

The night before, whisk together yeast, flour, sugar and salt in a large bowl. Stir in the milk, then the butter, then the vanilla extract; the batter will be loose. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside overnight at room temperature.

When ready to bake, preheat waffle iron. In a small bowl, whisk egg yolks, then stir them into the batter.

In a bowl of an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Gently stir beaten egg whites into the batter.

Cook waffles, one at a time, following directions of the waffle maker manufacturer, baking until waffles are crisp and brown outside and soft inside. Serve immediately with butter and syrup.

Serves 2 to 4.

For added flavor, stir 1 cup chopped pecans into finished batter. For lighter waffles, separate the egg. Add yolk to milk as directed. Beat egg whites until stiff but still glossy, then carefully fold into batter after adding melted butter. From "Waffles From Morning to Midnight" by Dorie Greenspan.

• 1 c. flour

• 1 tsp. baking powder

• Pinch of salt

• 1 1/2 tbsp. sugar

• 1 c. milk

• 1 egg

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

• Butter and maple syrup, for serving

Directions

Preheat waffle iron.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. In another bowl, whisk together milk and egg, blending thoroughly. Pour milk and egg mixture over dry ingredients and mix with the whisk, stopping when ingredients are just combined. Stir in 2 tablespoons melted butter.

Cook waffles, one at a time, following directions of the waffle maker manufacturer (if batter becomes too thick upon standing, thin with a little more milk), baking until waffles are crisp and brown outside and soft inside. Serve immediately with butter and syrup.

Serves 4.

From "Cooking for Comfort" by Marian Burros.

• 2 c. sifted flour

• 1 tsp. salt

• 1/2 tsp. baking soda

• 2 eggs, separated

• 1 3/4 c. buttermilk

• 4 tbsp. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

• Butter and maple syrup, for serving

Directions

Preheat waffle iron.

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, salt and baking soda. In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolks, then whisk in buttermilk. Add flour mixtures to buttermilk mixture and mix only to blend; do not overmix. Stir in melted butter.

In a bowl of an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat egg whites until stiff but still glossy. Fold stiff egg whites into batter; do not blend completely.

Cook waffles, one at a time, following directions of the waffle maker manufacturer, baking until waffles are crisp and brown outside and soft inside. Serve immediately with butter and syrup.

Serves 4 to 6.

From "American Home Cooking," by Cheryl and Bill Jamison.

• 2 c. flour

• 2 tbsp. sugar

• 1 1/4 tsp. baking powder

• 1 tsp. salt

• 3/4 c. stone-ground grits

• 3/4 c. (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter

• 4 eggs, separated

• 1 1/4 c. milk

• 6 to 8 slices crisp cooked bacon, crumbled

Directions

In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar and baking powder and reserve.

In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring 4 cups water to a boil. Stir in salt and grits, whisking constantly until mixture comes back to a boil. Reduce heat to low and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until very thick and creamy, about 30 minutes. Stir in butter until melted and scrape the grits mixture into a large bowl.

Stir in egg yolks, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add flour mixture, mixing only until combined, followed by the milk. The batter should be thin. In bowl of an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat egg whites until stiff but still glossy. Preheat waffle iron. Stir bacon into batter and fold in stiff egg whites. Cook waffles, one at a time, following directions of the waffle maker manufacturer.