The 5 best things our food writers ate this week

One of the great things about skill mastery is taking a hard, long look at the rules of what came before you and smashing them to bits. That’s the joy and part of the story of Jook Sing. The pop-up is currently hosting a limited residency at Steady Pour, the cocktail den and restaurant in northeast Minneapolis.

Chefs Mike Yuen and Tony Gao are two self-described third-culture kids who took the American and Chinese food influences they grew up with and turned it into a collaboration whose only rules are the ones they make. A dish that exemplifies the fun they’re having is the mapo hot dish ($15). The spicy, saucy mix of beef, mushrooms and tofu ragu is topped with highly seasoned, perfectly crisp tots and served in a giant bowl. It’s a delicious collision of cultures and a dish that doubles as a dead-of-winter coping mechanism.

For now, the team behind Jook Sing are in the kitchen alongside Steady Pour’s chef (whose menu is also available). Follow them on Instagram for future whereabouts. (Joy Summers)

2125 E. Hennepin Av., #205, Mpls., jooksingmn.com

If you’re missing the fried chicken at Revival since it closed all of its locations, there’s a new game in town that should ease the sting a bit. James Beard Award-winning chef Alex Roberts is giving his take on fried chicken at the New Orleans creole and Southern comfort-influenced Caja, one of the cheffy additions to Graze Food Hall in the North Loop since the Travail team took over operations.

The Share Platter ($58, serves 3-4) sampler was the way to go for our party of four. Chicken tenders, fries, three sides (red beans and rice with smoked beef sausage, slaw and mac and cheese), garlic butter toast, rolls and house sauce had us coming in for bite after bite. But our group would have battled each other over the fried chicken, also part of a platter order.

Roberts has long been serving up fried chicken for parties as well as staff meals when he worked in the kitchen at the renowned New York restaurant Bouley. Over the years, the Alma and Brasa chef homed in on a New Orleans style and technique to render a thick, crisp, well-seasoned exterior with a juicy center. As part of it, drumsticks, the cut of choice at Caja, are pressure-fried in beef tallow.

The chicken is also available as a single serving ($14.75, two pieces with slaw, garlic toast, Caja sauce). Be sure to get a side of the green chile cornbread ($2), a spin from the one served at Brasa but just as moist and flavorful. You can find the order-at-the-counter spot on the second floor of the newly rebranded Graze Food Hall by Travail. (Nancy Ngo)

520 N. 4th. St., Mpls.,grazenorthloop.com/caja

Ever since El Sazon Tacos & More launched at an Eagan gas station, the family-owned eatery became known for chef Cristian de Leon’s melt-in-your-mouth Mexican braised beef, or birria, with which he would stuff into tacos, add to ramen or atop pizza. When the brand grew, adding the sit-down El Sazon Cocina & Tragos in south Minneapolis, the birria came along.

So when the de Leons' fast-growing business expanded yet again, opening Xelas by El Sazon in Stillwater late last month to showcase the Mayan food of de Leon’s native Guatemala and beyond, his famous birria just had to be on the menu. But here, it’s served a totally different way.

Xelas’ tetela de birria ($16.64) is a stunning spin on a Oaxacan dish, tetelas, which are triangles of masa usually stuffed with beans or cheese. Here, at this resort-chic spot, it’s stuffed with that comforting, slow-stewed meat and melted queso. The handcrafted masa pocket has a one-of-a-kind swirling design that could hypnotize you, if not for the dollops of guajillo tomato demi and a fresh salad on top. The tetela comes with a side of chirmol (a chunky Guatemalan salsa), and a bowl of the beef’s braising liquid, so rich and thick it could practically be mistaken for chocolate syrup.

“This dish pays homage to our roots,” said co-owner Karen de Leon. “Birria is how El Sazon started back in the gas station, now bringing those cherished flavors to Stillwater.”

Valentine’s Day sidenote: Chef de Leon is paying tribute to one of the restaurants where he got his start, Chino Latino, with a nostalgic Valentine’s weekend menu at El Sazon Cocina & Tragos (5309 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls.). Friday and Saturday are pretty much sold out, but walk-ins can be seated at the bar; there are still some reservations available for Sunday. (Sharyn Jackson)

1180 Frontage Road W., Stillwater, elsazonmn.com

There’s something intrinsically fun and interactive about the cook-your-own spots popping up around town with grills centered at the table.

Before diving into the main course, which were decidedly grilled meats and vegetables, our crew was just as starry-eyed over the appetizer selection. The kimchi bites (4 for $12) seemed so unique that it had to be part of our order, and in the end was a delicious decision. Vermicelli noodles get shaped into a rectangular nest and are fried — its appearance and texture reminiscent of a thin bed of dried ramen noodles — and then topped with pork and kimchi, a mild, tangy, pickled fermented cabbage-vegetable concoction made in-house.

Korean wing lovers will be happy to hear that twice-fried wings ($14, six pieces) are on the menu and also executed wonderfully. Also highly recommended is an order of the LA Galbi, short ribs marinated in a house sauce for tender, flavorful results, as a meat choice for grilling. And for hot pot lovers, there are several varieties available. While some places serve the meats and vegetables on the side to add to the broth as you go, here it all gets put into the pot before arriving at your table so all you have to do is wait for the ingredients to cook before ladling. (N.N.)

4207 Hwy. 13 W., Savage, gogibarbq.com

I didn’t know I needed chicken fried steak, but Black Duck’s new brunch menu knew better. The classic comfort of steak dipped in buttermilk batter, deep fried and served with cream gravy is common in roadside diners and the South, serving as a hearty base for a long day of serious work. Anyone who knows me will agree, I’m hardly ever serious, and certainly not into heavy lifting work. But when something is cooked with this much love, it’s worth planning a day around enjoying it.

Black Duck is the work of Jason Sawicki and filled with the kind of comforts he’s been serving Minneapolis at some of the top restaurants around town, from Oro by Nixta to Centro to Lyn65. He’s got a way with big flavors, and the new brunch menu puts those skills on display with dishes like a blue corn pancake, freshly fried pączek, a souffle egg sandwich and this chicken fried flat-iron steak ($24). Every bite rings all the good taste bells: tender, crunchy, intensely beefy, creamy, black peppery and so good dragged through egg yolks.

Turns out I did need this fuel for the heavy labor of weekend errands and couch appreciation I had on the books. (J.S.)

2900 NE. Johnson St., Mpls., blackduckmpls.com