The 5 best things our food writers ate this week

Waiting on the inevitable Sunday morning line at Sun Street Breads, it’s hard not to completely blow up your shopping list. Sure, you probably came in for a loaf of the Kingfield sourdough, or were planning to sit with a biscuit breakfast sandwich and an elegant cardamom twist. But then you start scanning the menu and the grab-and-go case and suddenly you’re stocking up on Svalbard seed crackers and Crusher cookies and maybe throwing in a frozen pizza while you’re at it.

That’s how I found myself picking up a compact little paper boat filled with adorable housemade animal crackers ($7.75). The giraffe and lion and a seal balancing a little ball all called to me, and I guessed correctly they’d be a hit with my kids later that day.

Though they’d been overshadowed by Sun Street’s incredible breads, to me anyway, they’ve been on the menu since Day 1, back in 2011, baker/owner Solveig Tofte wrote in an email. “It was part of the original business plan,” she said. “I wanted to send one or two out with every coffee just like the Muddy Waters of my youth [in the ‘80s].” Tofte is referring, of course, to the Uptown-area institution of a coffeeshop that evolved over time into a restaurant, and closed in 2020.

At Sun Street, the animal crackers — which are actually a sugar cookie crisped up with the addition of rice flour and flavored with a hint of nutmeg — never actually made it onto every coffee saucer. But packages of them have become a favorite with regulars at the bright corner cafe.

“Everyone seems to love them,” Tofte said. “We have grandparents who come in every week to get some when the grandkids come over, and that’s awesome.” (Sharyn Jackson)

4600 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., sunstreetbreads.com

Even before setting foot inside Tromperia El Zac, the heady perfume this St. Paul restaurant emits is irresistible: roasted meats, sweet onions, toasty peppers and the promise of a rotating spit loaded up with all the good things. “I don’t dream of fancy stoves, I just want to own my own trompo,” mused a chef friend.

The slow-roasting spit, or trompo, is stacked with fragrant meat and rotates, allowing the marinade and juices to drip from one layer onto another, basting itself. The pineapple releases a little of that honied, floral sweet juice to caramelize the exterior.

It’s then shaved and served on dishes such as the al pastor tacos ($3.39 each). As if that wasn’t heaven enough, housemade salsas take you on another flavor adventure: toasty and deep, bright and acidic, pure flames of Beelzebub and garlic — it’s glorious. (Joy Summers)

1322 Rice St., St. Paul, tromperiaelzac.com

Every time? “Yes, we sell out every time,” said Baaska Tegshbileg about his in-demand Sushi by Baaska.

Tegshibileg was once a familiar face behind local sushi counters before branching out on his own. Fans have been following the chef since for his omakase pop-ups as well as homasake (at home omakase) dinners.

After one bite it was easy to see why events sell out and the edible art he serves is worth tracking down. The Chef’s Choice nigiri ($45), precise cuts of fish on gorgeous rice coaxed into ebullient flavor combinations and textures, was a giddy experience.

Augment your meal with other bites like the $5 skewers, as we did during a recent pop-up. Also recommended is snagging an early seating, because it’s only a matter of time before things start to sell out. (J.S.)

Tegshibileg’s next pop-up will be held Feb. 27 at Edwards Dessert Kitchen (200 N Washington Av. N., Mpls.) in the North Loop. Follow Sushi by Baaska on Instagram or visit sushibybaaska.com for more information.

The first dish I ever tried at a Keys Cafe was the turkey with mashed potatoes and gravy. Though the New Brighton location where I had it no longer exists, luckily there are several locations throughout the metro. That includes a new outpost off a frontage road parallel to Highway 36 in Stillwater.

You can order the oven-roasted turkey as a platter with the fixings or as a hot commercial served between slices of bread. I chose the best of both worlds, a sandwich version in which you can opt for it to be open-faced. (Bonus: When ordering any of the hot sandwiches — turkey, roast beef and meatloaf — open face, it’s $1 off the $15.99 regular price).

It’s a satisfyingly classic dish that the local restaurant chain has made their own. Thinly sliced turkey is piled on top of housemade white bread and dressed generously with sage gravy. It’s all served with sides of mashed potatoes, stuffing and cranberries. Having a Key’s hot turkey commercial once again brought back special memories while creating new ones at its latest landing pad. (Nancy Ngo)

Locations in Forest Lake, Minneapolis, St. Paul, Roseville, White Bear Lake, Woodbury and Hudson as well as the latest outpost inside Valley Ridge Mall, 1400 W. Frontage Rd., Stillwater, keyscafe.com/restaurants/stillwater. Menu items vary depending on location.

It’s easy to make a meal from just the sides and starters at this Hawaiian restaurant in the south suburbs. Sure, there are wood-fired pizzas and entrees infused with island flavors. But my eyes were drawn to the appetizers, where there are four flavors of smoked wings, a poke stack, coconut shrimp, tempura cauliflower and my pick, Spam sliders ($13).

Hawaiians’ love of the Minnesota-made meat product started during World War II, when it was part of meals served to the GIs. It became part of the island culture and cuisine, and was taken in many delicious directions — in fried rice, wontons, musubi and more. At Pau Hana, it’s seared and served in slider form inside sweet, buttery Hawaiian buns toasted with furikake (think of a Japanese version of everything bagel seasoning). Then comes American cheese and a fruity pineapple aioli, with pickled jalapeños adding welcome spice and completing the flavor package.

If you’re still harboring strong Spam feelings from your youth, it’s time to give it another try. The islands are calling. (Nicole Hvidsten)

14435 Hwy. 13, Savage, pauhanamn.com

Correction: A previous version had an incorrect date for Sushi by Baaska’s next pop-up.